Four Lakes Loop: Backpacking the Trinity Alps

The Trinity Alps Wilderness was the first place I fell in love with nature, learned of her power, and  her sweetness. The first place I stripped to bare skin and jumped in a river, ice cold, on a sweltering summer day. Where I took my first backpacking trip, up Gates Mountain. Where I felt a longing for home deep in my bones. That was fourteen years ago, in Hayfork when I spent summers at Bar 717 Ranch, aka Camp Trinity. Now, as an adult embarking on a journey to deepen my connection with nature, and myself, it seemed important to reacquaint myself with the mountains where I first found independence and strength through nature.

The Trinity Alps is one of the most sacredly wild and raw places to explore in California today; to really see and experience it, backpacking is the way to go. We camped at Trinity Lake the evening before embarking on the four lakes loop trail. The morning we left the campsite, I decided to take quick swim and as I emerged from the water a white falcon flew overhead. It felt like a good omen for the trip ahead. We got our wilderness and back country fire permits at the Weaverville Ranger Station and we were off. 

There are two routes you can take to get to the four lakes loop. We opted for Stoney Ridge Trail; though a bit more rigorous, the pay-off is spectacular views while you climb and descend. The climb was not to be underestimated, though. Immediately we were trudging up-hill, and then came the switchbacks. The first section of trail is deeply wooded forest, dense with Ponderosa and Sugar Pine. Beautiful mountain wildflowers abound, and for the first time I saw yellow Lupine! 

After we emerged from the forest, the climb continued up to a saddle, where looking south a panoramic view of the massive Trinity Lake and surrounding forest is the reward. As we descended into the valley, dramatic granitic peaks of the alps greeted us, while afternoon breeze provided a much needed reprieve from the heat. 

The valley floor below filled with giant Indian Paintbrush, and fluttering swallow tails. As the afternoon light began to fall, we began our final ascent to the campsite. The last pitch was the most challenging; the place between my low back and hips began to ache, succumbing to the two days of supplies carried on my back. 

Just as the sun was setting we reached Echo Lake, where we set up camp for the night. As evidenced below, we were just a little tired from the 4,000 feet climb and about 7 mile hike.After a luxurious meal of Ramen under the stars, we fell asleep easily. 

The view from our first campsite.

Ryan "star gazing"...

The next day I woke up with the sun, and took a quick dip in Echo Lake, adjacent to our campsite. The water felt like the Antarctic, and when I say quick dip, I literally mean five seconds in the water, and out. The rim of Echo Lake was covered with neon green grass blanket, and the lake itself was a breath taking mirror reflection of the spring greenery and cooked rock.

We started out on the trail for four lakes loop. The first section was a descent into Red Mountain Meadows, where my fellow- geologist friend Marcel, and I, oogled at exquisite, unknown metamorphic rocks that pervaded the trail. Past the meadows, we arrived at a saddle that overlooked Luella Lake, and the intimidating Stonewall Pass, that would lead us to the other three lakes.

You can do the loop via two different routes, but we decided to bite the bullet and trudge up the pass, first. We did this trek during the second week of June, and some parts of the trail still had snow-bank remnants. 

The scenery of four lakes loop trail left me mouth-gaped open, awe-struck at every turn. Talus slopes of red orange cooked metamorphic rock stood in stark contrast to craggy, steep, granite alps around the corner. Truly, the views motivated me past physical fatigue to skip up and down the trail, because I was so excited to see what would come next.

 

On the way down to Diamond Lake.

I would highly suggest having lunch and a swim at Diamond Lake (third lake from Luella if you go take stonewall pass first) -- this was my favorite lake of the loop. An emerald-indigo infinity pool-eqsue lake that is out of any wilderness enthusiasts dream. From the water, or any various viewpoint around the lake, an unrivaled view into the depths of the glacial carved craggy peaks that define the Trinity Alps can be experienced. 

Ryan enjoying the swim and the  view.

We lost track of time at Diamond Lake, and spent a couple hours there lounging, swimming, eating, and admiring the breath taking view. Back on the trail, we passed through another lush meadow, and began climbing up to the fourth lake. The plan was to follow the loop, see all four lakes, and head back to camp. But, our motto on this trip is, follow the adventure. So when Ryan, Marcel and I looked north to see a gnarly looking volcanic peak, that could possibly offer even more dramatic views than had already been beheld, we decided to go for it. 

Climbing.

Taking in my surroundings, half way up the peak

It took a lot of hands and knees cross country scrambling up 350 feet of ridge-line, but the 360 degree panroma on the peak was like nothing else. All the terrain we had climbed the last two days we could see from a birds eye view, and the cherry on top was a crystal clear view of Mount Shasta. We truly felt like we were on top of the world, at 8,143 ft. The sheer thousand feet drop offs on either side of the ridge and deadly looking volcanic spires kept our adrenaline up to make it back to camp for the night. 

Ryan celebrating bagging the peak!

Mt. Shasta in frame.

Blissed Out.

As we jogged-hiked back down through the valley to camp, the sunset followed and through my exhaustion I still couldn't help but feel bliss from the wondrous, gorgeous scenery of the Trinity Alps. I would suggest doing the trail in late May, or the beginning of June. It looks like now temps are reaching 100, and with the difficulty of the trail, it would be much more comfortable to do it in early summer, or the cusp of summer to fall.

As my tired, wobbly legs carried me back to camp, I was struck with the thought that, everyone should be so lucky and privileged to be able to experience the rugged, pristine wilderness of California. It is crucial that we continue to protect these sacred lands and keep them wild, so that future generations may also be inspired, and impassioned here. 

Second campsite, by Echo Lake.

Echo Lake.

The morning commute.

We took the Stoney Ridge Trail and Four Lake Loop in 3 days, with bagging Siligo Peak, the mileage ended up being just about 24 miles. The trip was an amazing, one of a kind California wilderness experience, that one day I hope to be able to witness again. Stoney Ridge to Four Lakes Loop was my favorite backpacking trip I have gone on. Every corner we turned on this trail offered a unique piece of wild, rugged California beauty, that cannot be experienced any other way than backpacking. If you want to see the beautiful diversity of landscape, and geology California has to offer in one place, go to the Trinity Alps.